Ghanaian guests of honor!

Two distinguished Ga visitors brought a bit of Ghana to the IYARE! opening. Dr. Samuel Quartey, Philadelphia podiatrist and traditional ruler, was hosting kingmaker Nii Amarkai III, and brought him along for a look. Many Edo traveled from Benin to Elmina in the late 15th and 16th century as traders, so this cultural exchange has a long history. Many thanks for joining us!

Yoruba beauties

"Playing the Provinces" looks at Benin's impact on its neighbors, including the Ijebu and Owo Yoruba. Owo artists carved pieces that were absolutely amazing. This double ivory bracelect was made of one tusk section, split by the maker into one cylinder inside the other. Openings on the outer cylinder and projections from the inside cylinder interlock so they have remained intact. Rubbing with palm oil gave the ivory a glowing, golden patina.

Installation photo by Lauren Flaschen-Hansen
Object photo by Penn Museum Photo Studio

Benin drinks and a holiday challenge

Tomorrow is Thanksgiving, and American households are abuzz with preparation--just so you know, turkeys are indeed available in Benin, though not an everyday food. We just passed a NJ liquor store with a full parking lot, and it got me thinking about Benin and drinks. Soft drinks? Fanta (in orange, lemon, pineapple, and other flavors), Schweppes Bitter Lemon, Coke, tonic water, malt drinks and more. Beer and the like? Guinness has a brewery in Benin City, as does Nigeria Breweries--ah, a cold, tasty Star beer is perfect with a hot, peppery stew.

If you can get undiluted, fresh palm wine, is anything better? Yeasty and slightly effervescent, even better if a fridge is available to cool it off. Delicious and refreshing, and not at all overpowering. Once it's "overnight," fermentation transforms it into a far more powerful drink. Suitable for the ancestors as well as the living, palmi is the traditional alcoholic beverage. Supermarkets in Benin City carry many types of wines and liqueurs--Moet & Chandon is a popular society choice, while Malibu and Bailey's Irish Cream appeal to sweet tooths.

Gin, however, has long been a favorite for family members who have gone before. Centuries ago, the Dutch started selling it as a standard trade item, and only schnapps attempts to challenge its value as a "hot" drink suitable for ancestors. Gordon's is, by far, the gin of choice today, and is readily available in most shops. Research introductions call for gifts of kola nuts, some naira, and Gordon's--even if you didn't drink in this lifetime, you will in the afterlife, so it's always handy for libations.

Benin is not really a cocktail spot--gin is drunk neat. But the holidays are coming, and it seems to me that a festive IYARE! mixed drink (giving the phrase's "go and return safely" meaning a new twist, promoting moderation!) could be a pleasant invention. So help this blog come up with an appropriate blend--it must be a gin-based cocktail, coral or red in its final color. What else should be in there? Hmmm....plenty of mangos in Benin, papaya, grapefruits, the best pineapples ever, lime, lemon, oranges... post your recipes!

Education!

The Hon. James H. Roebuck, Jr., Philadelphia state representative and chairman of the state's education committee, was at the IYARE! preview. We hope he will spread the word, because school involvement is one of our goals, and we appreciated his visit. Our legislator is shown here chatting with Dr. Richard Hodges, the Penn Museum director.

Handkerchiefs are a staple

At least one non-Edo Nigerian visitor to the IYARE! preview knew...

Hearing there would be Benin dance at the public opening, he said eagerly: "With handkerchiefs?"

But of course! Benin ladies have been dancing with handkerchiefs since the Portuguese first brought them in the late 15th century. Like their Itsekiri neighbors, they employ them in smooth, graceful performances.

Male dance can be far more vigorous, with stamping motions and expansive arm gestures.

Chiefly dance has limited steps, but is highlighted by the tossing of the eben ceremonial sword--come see it in the IYARE! exhibition's videos!

Handkerchiefs are also essential non-dance accessories for the monarch himself, as well as his wives, chiefs, and chiefs' wives. Covering the mouth is polite, particularly in a public occasion. "No one sees the teeth a deity eats with."

Photo by Jennifer Chiappardi

Worlds meet at the Penn Museum

Scholar Brian Rose, Deputy Director of the Penn Museum, meets Penn Law School overseer Osagie Imasogie and his father, theologist and philosopher Prof. Osadolor Imasogie, as well as mental health specialist Tina Iyare. Penn Museum's Benin exhibition IYARE! Splendor and Tension in Benin's Palace Theatre united Nigeria and Philadelphia, adding a further layer of international excitement to the week that brought the city the World Series championship and the presidential election.

Photo by Lauren Hansen-Flaschen

Cultural dancers greet Chief Obasogie

Chief Eduwu Ekhator Obasogie, the Obasogie of Benin Kingdom, traveled from Nigeria to see IYARE! He stands here with the Edo college students who so ably brought the Kingdom's dance to a new audience, and gave them a little taste of home.

Chief is wearing attire developed by Dr. Aisien that shows loyalty to the monarch, Oba Erediauwa. In past centuries, all citizens had iwu torso tattoos.

While this fell by the wayside earlier in the 20th century, Dr. Aisien--with palace support--created outfits that included embroidered versions of the old tattoos. Courtiers and cultural troupes demonstrate their unwavering fidelity to the king when they wear this dress.

Oba gha to kpere! Isee!

Photo by Jennifer Chiappardi

Ada attraction

Yes, the ada is getting the boyish votes! The lighting and mounting show off its beautiful chased designs. No, fellows--it isn't sharp. The ceremonial swords were not the businesslike blades the Benin army used so successfully. These are for court!

Photo by Jennifer Chiappardi

Nigeria is right with us in Philadelphia

Although we had Nigerian visitors direct from Benin City and from as far afield as Boston, New York and Washington (thank you, all!), our Philadelphian Nigerian-American hosts ably proved the affability and charm of our city. Businessmen extraordinaire Osagie Imasogie (lawyer and pharmaceutical executive) and Larry Dibor (engineer and construction executive) are joined by Chris Dibor, who is preparing to make his capable mark on the City of Brotherly Love as well.

Photo by Lauren Hansen-Flaschen

Come see

In selecting which photos went up on the official website, we tried to look for those that showed off the installation best. But in our less formal blog, some of the other wonderful shots deserve to be seen! These wonderful photos aren't mine; they were taken by the Museum's own Lauren Hansen-Flaschen and Jennifer Chiappardi, both of whom got right in there to capture the contagious glamour of Benin. So, a flurry of posts this morning to stir viewers to make their own stories by visiting the exhibition.

Here Penn's African Studies director Lee Cassanelli converses with Penn Law School overseer Osagie Imasogie, Museum overseer Peter Gould, and Robin Potter in Benin City red.

Photo by Lauren Hansen-Flaschen

IYARE in the house

A big URUESE! to Tina Iyare for her immense help in publicizing the exhibition to the Benin community, drawing dancers from the Washington, DC orbit, creating enthusiasm in the audience for Edo dance (folks should see that the energetic arm-flinging characteristic of dance from Guinea/Senegal is not the only style of dance on the continent!), and speaking about parenthood and family life in Benin. And for wearing the most glamourous iwu outfit ever!

Many thanks too to her handsome son, who acted as banker for the "sprayers." Our American audience was shy at first, but Nigerians showed them the way, and little girls were particularly enthusiastic in their willingness to step up to the stage. "They're so beautiful!" one whispered to me. Indeed they are!

Photo by Lauren Hansen-Flaschen

We're Open!

I'm happy to say the exhibit IYARE!: Splendor and Tension in Benin's Palace Theatre is now open and ready for you to visit!

It's at the Penn Museum in Philadelphia, at 3260 South Street, and open Tuesday through Sunday. Our giant website is also open--please check http://www.iyare.net/

The opening was great--we'll be adding footage and photos both here and on the website. A big and enthusiastic crowd--tell your friends and come see us!

Chief Eduwu Ekhator Obasogie, the Obasogie of Benin Kingdom, came from Nigeria for the IYARE opening and is shown here watching the cultural dancers. Thank you so much for gracing the occasion